Trekking in the Andes

Trekking in the Andes

Andean walking, Machu Picchu, glaciers, jungle, 1800 steps, ancient human bones, Landslide!

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We walked a lot in Peru, and being in the heart of the Andes, the city of Cusco enjoys steep hills aplenty; and at an altitude

of close to 11,000ft, in the first week or two we certainly noticed the thin air and at times were gasping for oxygen!

Every day we would have a wander in town, taking in the hustle and bustle of a city teeming with trading activity, each new doorway or alleyway offered another business offering to sell a product or service. And constantly the cry of “llamadas”, people offering calls on cell phones. Our meanderings around town had the backdrop of some ancient Inca ruins, but more striking was the Colonial mansions and churches built by the Spanish after their conquest in 1543. Architecturally Cusco is beautiful.

After a couple of weeks we felt acclimatised to the altitude, George started running, Jack and Jed would often play football or basketball on the nearby pitch. We worked hard at Spanish school, followed by the voluntary work at the Cusco schools (see separate reports) and then followed all this activity with longer, mountain walks.

Salkantay Trek

4 days trekking, about 60km, and 3 nights camping, plus the prospect of the trek ending with the excitement of visiting Machu Picchu. That’s how things should have been, but best laid plans and all that………

After the bus journey out from Cusco (only one flat tyre), a good breakfast, and the purchase of a couple of sticks for Grums’ wobbly knees, we set off on the trail. A steady climb, gaining altitude, and passing through woods and pasture. The walking was made easily manageable by the fact that all the camping gear, food etc was being carried by horses, we just had to shoulder our day packs. We didn’t even have to navigate as our guide Ronaldo took care of that, plus gave us the benefit of his local knowledge regarding flora and fauna. There was a cook and his assistant, table, chairs, mess tent; this was luxury camping!

We had a good first day, but Grum had a seriously bad night with a prolonged bout of vomiting which resulted in a very short second day as Grum could barely stand! Bridget and the boys had a restful day, Grum festered in his sick tent and we camped a second night at about 4300m.

On day three, Grum was fit and well and ready for what turned out to be a long day, 13 hours walking! In the first 2 hours we climbed up, up, up, alongside the moraine of a long gone glacier, and approaching the spectacular, snow and glacier capped peak of Salkantay Mountain. We reached the pass, and highest point of 4600 metres and then began a long, steady descent on the East side of the mountains, basically heading for the jungle, following rivers that eventually feed the Amazon and cross the continent all the way to the coast of Brazil.

During the days walking, the vegetation changed from sparse lichens, mosses, and grass to dense, verdant undergrowth, banana palms and huge tropical trees. It was a long day and we were still walking as night fell, Jed leading the way with our guide, Bridget and Grum astern. The campsite, an evening meal and a cold beer were very welcome!

We were aching the next morning and only George felt fit enough to walk another 6 hours up a further climb of 1000metres, so at 05.00 he and the guide set out. The rest, well we took a creaking local bus part way towards Aguas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu. Once together again we continued the trek, following the railway line through the steep valleys, now hot and sultry with parrots flying overhead. And once in Aquas Calientes we relaxed, visited the hot springs for a relieving soak, and prepared for the trip to Machu Picchu the following day.

Machu Picchu

Up at 04.30, walking out of the town, and beginning the climb to Machu Picchu at first light. There are frequent buses up to the site, but why wait for that air-conditioned luxury? After all we are Coileys, let’s save a few $$s, and climb 1800 steps! Yes, Jed counted them all.

You have to be up there early, as the sun rises above the mountains and lights the Incan ruins, it’s a wonderful spectacle and you ask the question; how and why such an impressive construction? Just look at the pictures, impressive eh?

Whilst exploring we learnt about the importance of the sun, moon, puma and condor to the Incas. Later we set off ascending the adjacent mountain of Wayna Picchu, it was step and hot, but the views from the summit were just outstanding, well worth the effort. Somehow, the lads had the energy to run back down, whilst most adults slowly struggled down.

The Lares Trek

For this trek we were down to 3 Coileys. Jack and Bridge stayed in Cusco, Jack for another week in Spanish school and both continuing another week of voluntary work at Amas school.

So, George, Jed and Grum set out with a couple of French ladies, our Guide and heavily laden horses. This route took us from East to West, again climbing into the mountains, crossing a high pass at 4300 metres, and descending into the sacred valley near the town of Ollantaytambo.

Our trek started with a dip in some hot springs, and that was the last warmth for a while, as things got colder, and colder. The walking wasn’t long but made tougher because of rain and later hail, and slow French people.

Our first nights camp was in a mountain village up at around 4000m, where the life is tough although surrounded by the mountainous beauty. We kept warm sitting in one of the family homes, a stone and thatched cottage, all squeezed around the open fire (lacking any form of chimney), eating small baked potatoes, and trying to gaze through the gloom that a single 40W bulb created. Chickens and a multitude of guinea pigs scurried around the earth floor, and the rain poured down outside. When the power failed it seemed time to say “buenas noches y gracias” and we headed to bed. When George and Grum unrolled their sleeping bags it was to discover that the zips were broken. We had a cold night!

The second day was a steady uphill climb, sometimes in rain, through land that surprisingly is farmed to grow potatoes, and all done by hand. As we approached the high pass the thick cloud descended, and the hail began to fall, it became a bit of a slog. But once over the high pass, the clouds lifted to reveal a spectacular lake surrounded by mountains and the promise of a lunch stop. Our grub whilst trekking always consisted of soup and the plenty of tea; usually mate de coca or manzanilla.

Descending into the wooded valley our overnight camp was beside a stream, and as the sun set temperatures dropped rapidly, everyone was grateful to George and Jed who collected wood and soon had a roaring, warming fire blazing.

It was about now that a rock about the size of a basketball came crashing down the hillside and somehow bounced over tents and people, safely through the camp……no chance to shout “landslide” ….a little unnerving. We set about building a protective dry stone wall around our tent!

We survived the night, waking to frozen tents and so were glad once again of that campfire.

The final day was a gentle descent out of the mountains; with temperatures rising we were soon walking in shorts and t-shirts.

Cai Cay Walks

During our stay in Cai Cay we did several day walks from the village. We visited the village of Chumpa high up on a mountain ridge where we were welcomed into the small school with its 12 pupils. The children only speak Quechua, no Spanish, and so the teacher translated as we told them of our travels and they told us something of their lives. We drew a picture on the chalkboard of Double Waters and they drew us pictures of their homes. Without electricity, or a clean water supply there is a plan for the whole village to move down to Cai Cay in the valley.

Another walk took us up the river valley through field of maize and potatoes, and during this trip Jed and I went on a small adventure. The two of us climbed a steep and prickly hillside up to a cliff that clearly had manmade structures built into it. On closer inspection these turned out to be tombs (pre Inca we later learnt), and when we looked close we found a few bones……….

One of our hopes in Peru was to walk a bit in the Andes, this we did and had some great experiences.

FOR SALE: One pair of size 12 boots, good condition (if a little smelly), no others available in Peru. Contact George.

Extra Photos of Trekking